11/17/09

Chocolate: Ganache; Piped and Framed

Ganache= emulsion
-needs to be balanced between fat and moisture, fat to moisture ratio

Key Ingredients
Chocolate- base, adds solids and fat to mixture

Heavy cream- liquefier- adds moisture and fat -> lowers melting point of chocolate

Sugar- invert or glucose- prevents crystallization, binds moisture and extends shelf life, lends viscosity to mixture, prevents coalescence of fat droplets in ganache which helps prevent separation

Flavorings: purees- liquefier (acts as part of weight of cream), alcohol- liquefier but it actually binds moisture, salt- binds moisture

Butter- lowers melting point of cocoa butter, contributes fat

Want harmony between fat and water droplets

Separation
-if have way too much fat- ratio is off
-> can fix with water or milk
-> can try to fix by reheating ganache, under 94 degrees, and burr mix it
-can occur from too much agitation
-if you wait too long before stirring

*Cocoa Butter Equivalent
-palm kernel oil is manipulated to behave like cocoa butter- like in pate a glacer


Hazelnut Latte – ½ recipe
Praline Ganache
75 g cream
25 g glucose
15 g hazelnut liquor
10 g cocoa butter, melted
30 g praline paste
210 g white chocolate, tempered, at 86 degrees

Framed Ganache
-will be framed in quarter sheet pan
-start with praline ganache- build upside down
-both need melted tempered chocolate

Praline Ganache
-temper white chocolate to 86 degrees
-boil cream and glucose

-add liquor to cream when off heat, let cool to 105 degrees
-melt cocoa butter, mix with hazelnut paste
-add nut mixture to tempered white chocolate
-add cooled cream to chocolate mixture

-pour into frame
-let set up


Coffee Ganache
90 g cream
5 g coffee beans
milk as needed
30 g glucose
20 g coffee liquor
20 g soft butter
200 g dark chocolate, tempered, at 90 degrees

Coffee Ganache prep
-temper dark chocolate to 90 degrees
-boil cream with coffee beans, take off heat and cover with plastic- let infuse for at least 5 minutes
-rescale to required weight of cream; add milk to make up difference
-add glucose and bring back to boil
-take off heat and add coffee liquor, let cool to 105 degrees
-mix soft butter into tempered chocolate, making sure no lumps remain
-add cream liquor mixture to chocolate and stir until completely smooth and streak free
-pour over praline ganache in frame
-let set


Buckwheat Honey Ganache
180 g cream
70 g buckwheat honey
450 g milk chocolate
20 g butter

Beehive Ganache
-heavy cream and honey in pot- bring to boil
-honey is invert sugar- extends shelf life, viscosity, flavor
-whisk
-chocolate in bowl, back over top of pot
-let sit couple of minutes- let cream permeate chocolate

-slowly whisk from center out
-can use whisk or spatula- don’t want to incorporate a lot of air
-widen out to edges of bowl


Tabling Ganache
-make sure table is clean
-table like tempering chocolate- because want to use it right away
-looking for ridges to form
-may take 5 passes


Piping Beehives
-have sheet of acetate ready with thin layer of tempered chocolate spread, small circles cut with round cutters, set
-have parchment cone with buckwheat honey ready
-fill piping bag with ganache once set up
-pipe small ring around chocolate base, coil up
-at half point add dollop of honey
-continue to coil up to form beehive
-let set



Passion Fruit Honey Butter Ganache
100 g butter
80 g honey
450 g milk chocolate
60 g passion fruit puree- reduced by ½

-Mix with softened butter- combine well

-temper milk chocolate, heat to 110- 113 degrees, cool, reheat to 84-86 degrees
-warm bowl with butter just a bit

-pour chocolate into butter, mix
-add puree

-mix in a bit
-table to get nice and thick- workable

-is tasty, definitely butter flavor
-nice mouth feel, creamy

Pipe strips of ganache to make "rafts" or pyramids, pipe small mounds to roll into truffles

Cut pyramids and rafts to 3cm long



Temper chocolate for dipping

Dipping
-with 58% chocolate need to add 10% cocoa butter by mass
-melt and temper them together
-64% needs no extra cocoa butter
-use metal dipping fork, tap for all excess chocolate to drip off, wipe against edge of bowl, slide off dipping fork onto silpat carefully avoiding making a “foot” on piece- excess chocolate pooled at base of candy

Chocolate not in temper will appear grey and streaky, cloudy- visible bloom on dipped chocolates below


Chocolate in temper is streak free, shiny, has good snap
Garnish appropriately with croquant, nuts, fruit, cocoa nibs

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